LONDON
Can you believe that we moved all the way to the West Coast and THEN decided to go to London for Christmas? If you are thinking about it making a trip across the pond, we recommend picking up a copy of Lonely Planet: London. A good internet site is http://www.londontown.com/. And don’t forget the Transportation For London site that has all of the bus and train schedules. http://www.tfl.gov.uk/tube/
Visiting during the Christmas Stretch posed a few problems. Much of the city closes down for the entire week. Underground service was reduced or closed on holidays. The daily temperature was rarely above 2 degrees Celsius. [ It snowed briefly the morning of the 26th.] Even so, we walked everywhere, took the Underground with no problems, and enjoyed the mostly smaller crowds.
HELPFUL LONDON TERMSSigns do not say "EXIT." They say “WAY OUT”
The drugstore is called “the chemist.”
Soccer is called “football.”
"Take out” is called “Take Away.”
BLOOMSBURY SQUARE
We stayed at the Hotel Montague on Bloomsbury Square, which is across the street from the British Museum and within walking distance of three Underground stations. The neighborhood was historic and very quiet. It was easy to imagine some of the Bloomsbury Group--which included writers E.M. Forster and Virginia Woolf--meeting in one of the row houses in the early 1900‘s. It was easy to imagine the "Who Will Buy?" segment from Oliver! taking place here, too.
CHRISTMAS EVEWe walked into the hotel at 9:00am Christmas Eve and promptly took a four-hour nap. After showering, we headed to St Paul’s Cathedral for the 4:00pm Carol Service. We arrived at 2:30 and there was already a line! The building holds about two thousand people so we were inside and seated in about ahalf hour.
The service started with a lone voice from the Boy’s Choir singing “Once In Royal David’s City” and ended with the entire congregation joining in on “O Come All Ye Faithful.” Throughout the presentation, lessons were read by various dignitaries--including David Brewer, Lord High Mayor of London--as the choir and clergy progressed from the altar to the main entrance doors. It was a beautiful service.
After an Italian meal at one of the few places still open in Piccadilly Circus, we headed over to Westminster Abbey for the 11:30pm Christmas Mass. We were there with plenty of time to spare, so we walked down to Buckingham Palace and back up through St James Park. By then, people were queuing up, so we followed suit, and ended up behind TC and Mark from Alabama and Tucson.
The First Eucharist of Christmas at Westminster Abbey included a sermon and Holy Communion. Perhaps it was the late hour or the openly crabby Dean, but the service just couldn’t hold a candle [forgive the pun] to the one at St. Paul’s. That said, I did enjoy singing “It Came Upon A Midnight Clear” and “In the Bleak Midwinter” and with completely different melody lines.
As the crowd exited, we walked through the church, marveling at all of the monuments and statuary devoted to the movers and shakers of English history and culture. It was interesting to think that every king and queen since William Conqueror [in 1066] had been crowned on that site. [All but two, actually. Their names are hidden somewhere on this page. Can you find them? Just kidding.]
CHRISTMAS DAY
The next day, we slept until 12:30 because everything was closed and we still had some jet lag. After watching the annual broadcast of The Snowman, we walked down to The Strand for afternoon tea at the Savoy Hotel. This was my first time at a proper English tea, and it was quite a treat. Imagine sitting down for all the cucumber, salmon, egg salad and ham sandwiches you can eat. Then imagine digging into scones with clotted cream, mince pies, and other desserts, while you nurse a pot or two of tea. It was a great way to spend a winter afternoon.
Afterwards we explored more of the Savoy and were introduced to Kaspar the Kat. Since the 1920's, this 3-foot high sculpture has "lived" at the Savoy Hotel in London, and is assigned to eat with any group of diners that have 13 in their party. Apparently in the late 1890’s the first guest that rose from a table of 13 was later shot and killed. It is Kaspar's duty to bring the number of any dining party to 14, thereby protecting other diners from an unfortunate fate.When we left the hotel we crossed the Thames via the Waterloo bridge and made our way down to the London Eye. It was closed for the holiday, so we walked back along the river and crossing at Blackfriar‘s Bridge. We headed in the general direction of our hotel, but got off course and walked by St Bartholemew’s Hospital, Smithfield Central Markets, and the Dickens’ House Museum.
A CHRISTMAS CAROLThe next day we got to see Patrick Stewart perform his one-man version of Dickens’ classic story. He did not disappoint. On a bare stage with minimal lighting, almost no sound effects, and just three pieces of furniture, Stewart brought the story to life with humor, emotion and drama. If this production is ever headed your way, get a ticket. You can read about how he came to mount the original production here: http://www.christmascaroluk.com/abouttheshow.html
MARY POPPINS
Unfortunately, this was a disappointment as neither Daryl nor I found it to be practically perfect in any way. There were young audience members loudly unwrapping their candies through the first three songs which may have contributed to our not feeling supercalifra--you get the idea. But I think it’s safer to say that the reliance on spectacle, the radically different plot, and the focus on the parents’ story just left us indifferent.
http://marypoppinsthemusical.veriovps.co.uk/home/
MARY STEWARTThe next night, we saw a great play about the bitter relationship between Elizabeth I and Mary Queen of Scots [played by Harriet Walters and Janet McTeer, respectively.] I knew that Mary got the axe but I had never studied how her beheading came about. The script addressed many topics--power, blackmail, seduction, religious fundamentalism, family honor, responsibility, unrequited love, leadership--but didn’t feel scattered. It was presented on a spare set with careful staging and two actors at the top of their game. It was such a great show that I want to sit down and watch it again right now. (Thanks to Jill Caruth for recommending it. More on her later)
ttp://www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk/news/display?contentId=86324
MUSEUMS
London has so many great museums, it seems that you could go to a different one everyday for an entire year. Here are the ones we made it to on this trip:
THE BRITISH MUSEUM
Most of our time in this one was spent visiting the Egyptian wing and the controversial Elgin Marbles. These Friezes were removed--with permission--from the Parthenon in the early 1800’s. Although there is much controversy about where their rightful home is, I was happy for the opportunity to see them and pleased that photography was allowed.
http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/compass/ixbin/goto?id=enc852
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM
Also known as the V&A. Free. Awesome. Too much to see in one day. We went to the 4th floor and checked out British History 1600 to Present Day. We plan to visit again. You should, too. http://www.vam.ac.uk/
THEATER MUSEUM
Another free one. We were in Covent Garden and saw a sign. I thought it was going to be a storefront/souvenir stand, but it was much more. It is affiliated with the V&A and there are plans to rename it the Victoria and Albert Theater Museum. If you want to learn about how the West End became what it is today, check this place out. http://theatremuseum.org/collections/history.php?PHPSESSID=874314551b348c588f72ab497dae663b
LORD LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUMLord Frederic Leighton was an accomplished painter and head of the Royal Painting Society. He lived just off of Holland Park in a beautiful house with a paint studio on the top floor. During his travels, he became so enamored of Islamic tilework and architecture, that he added on to his house in that style. The homepage has a great picture of the addition.http://www.rbkc.gov.uk/leightonhousemuseum/general/
SOMERSET HOUSE
Calling this place a “house” is pretty ridiculous. It’s actually a former palace situated on the Thames. The computer-generated film loop showing four hundred years of renovation for the property was almost as interesting as the collection itself. There were British Watercolors, gold and silver pieces, an ice rink and a cozy café. I think the most incredible thing we saw there were the micro-mosaics made of marble and other stones. Here’s a blowup of one from 1833:
http://www.gilbert-collection.org.uk/thecollections/italian_mosaics/mosaicsLarge06.html
BRITISH TELEVISION
I got to see some personal favorites like Dave Allen At Large, The Goodies, and The Young Ones, and discovered other comedies like Morecambe and Wise and game shows Countdown and Hard Spell. We caught bits of the long-running nighttime soaps Coronation Street and EastEnders. Unlike American soaps, there is almost no background music and no glamour. The actors truly look like ordinary blue-collar folks and none of the characters runs a perfume or modeling company.
If you saw the movie Love, Actually you might remember the old rock ‘n roller who becomes fixated with having the number one song the week of Christmas. As it turns out, the “Christmas Number One” is kind of a big deal in Britain. We even saw a special that recounted the last 30 years and ended with this season’s winner "That's My Goal" by Shayne Ward. He was the big winner on the talent show The X Factor and this was his debut single. The video is like a highlight reel of his journey through the show. http://www.shayne-ward.com/news/
SPORTS
The day after Christmas is known for a two things: shopping and football. There were 10 or 11 games taking place on Boxing Day and we road on the Tube with several fans of the victorious Chelsea Football Club. They are about two thirds through the season which started in July, runs through May and features 47 matches. You can see the statistics on the team website under “Fixtures and Reports.” [What fixtures they are referring to, I‘m not sure.] There’s also a link for betting on “football, golf, tennis, horse racing, greyhounds, cricket and snooker.” http://www.chelseafc.com/index.asp
Speaking of cricket, I saw some reports on “The Ashes” which Australia had won 7 years in a row until the UK won it back earlier this year. I saw the game-winning play about 5 times during the week, but still have no idea exactly how cricket is “won.” Here’s a website where you can read a quick history of the Ashes, buy a 3-hour DVD of this year’s momentous game or just look at the smallest trophy in professional sports: http://www.334notout.com/
SHOPPING
We braved the serious shoppers on Boxing Day at Selfridges. Explored the large assortment of biscuits and teas at Fortnum & Mason--a London fixture since 1707 and reportedly, the Queen’s grocer. We walked through Notting Hill’s famed Portabello Road even though all the shops were closed. We went to Harrod’s on their first day open after the holidays. We should’ve kept on walking and avoided the crowd. It was very uncomfortable.
DINING
We had great food on this trip. Right around the corner from Mary Poppins was a terrific Thai place whose name escapes me at the moment. Not too far from that place was Grand Indian, which was also tasty. We had awesome pub grub--meat pies, bangers and mash (sausages & mashed potatoes)--at Night and Day [on Russell Square] and at The Railway [in the Kew Gardens station.] We had a great lunch at the very popular Wagamama’s. http://www.wagamama.com/food_sub_favourites.php [If you are looking to start a restaurant franchise here in the states, I would recommend this one.]
LAST DAY
The famous London weather didn’t kick in until our last day of sightseeing so the obligatory photo of us in front of Tower Bridge is somewhat gloomy. Luckily, that afternoon went to visit Jill Caruth. Daryl works with her daughter JJ and she thought her Mom would like a visit from two strangers. When we called on Thursday to get directions she recommended seeing Mary Stuart and for that we will always be grateful.
Ms. Caruth lives in Wandsworth Common, We took the train and walked to her flat in Wandsworth Common. [It sounds like something from Harry Potter but it’s an actual suburb south of the Thames.] We had tea, biscuits, jam, cake and lots of laughs. It was a great way to end the week and we appreciated her hospitality.
FLYING HOME
We made it to Gatwick airport in plenty of time for our flight home, and hours ahead of the planned Underground Strike. There was so much that we didn’t do on this trip--The Tate Modern, The Tower of London, Hamsptead Heath--that we were sad to leave.
THE REST OF THE MONTH
Even though London was probably the busiest week, we managed to do lots prior the trip.
WATCHING LEFT
My friend Keith was listening to NPR one afternoon and heard the story of a nun who was abducted, held captive and tortured psychologically and physically. She was freed but soon realized she would never escape the effects of the ordeal. Using her story as a starting-off point, Keith wrote a play that explores the daily challenges of a torture survivor and her family trying to lead a “normal” life. The play was produced in Washington, D.C. at Charter Theater and nominated for a few awards.
Some folks heard about Watching Left and invited Keith do an informal reading with an audience at The Road Theater in North Hollywood. Tagging along for the sole rehearsal and the official reading made me appreciate how difficult it is to write, cast, direct, produce, and present even a simple no-frills production with 5 performers and some folding chairs.
And even though the final result was rough around the edges, the script was still heard and it was still live theatre. The actor playing the father slipped right into character within the first three lines. Later in the show he played a store manager with the same ease. It was exciting to see Keith’s words actually come to life and I enjoyed his Q&A with the audience afterwards.
In the meantime, you can read up on Keith’s theater company at www.chartertheater.org and the Road Theater at http://www.roadtheatre.org/mission.htm#history.
If you would like to know more about Sister Dianna Ortiz, the woman whose story led Keith to write the play, check out The Blindfold's Eyes: My Journey from Torture to Truth: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570754357/104-9860354-6842311?v=glance&n=283155
HOLIDAYS IN LA
Keith was in town during the Disneyland Cast Christmas Party so we dragged him along. They close the park early so that employees can bring their families and experience the park with [mostly] shorter lines. Some of you may remember Walt Disney World doing this about 15 years ago.
Our friends Byron and Shephard drove us out to Woodland Hills to a neighborhood FULL of Christmas lights, which is always fun. I’m amazed at the time, money, labor, and electricity that goes into some of these yards. Some of the displays were done so well and some of them were just puzzling. What is Christmas-sy about a cutout of Shrek, The Incredibles or Transformers?
Daryl’s Department Holiday Party was at a house in Bel Air. On the way home. we drove down Rodeo Drive and looked at the holiday decorations. Would you believe Baccarat crystal chandeliers were hanging from every light post? Only in Beverly Hills.
MOVIES
We managed to fit in King Kong, Goodnight and Good Luck, The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, Miss Henderson Presents and Brokeback Mountain.
STAR SIGHTINGS
I was the Security Desk standing next to Harry Hamlin and never realized it until Daryl mentioned it as we got on the elevator. We saw the Food Network’s Rachel Ray arriving at Sur la Table for a book signing. At the movies, Daryl saw Drew Carey in the lobby. Michael Rosenbaum [Lex Luther on Smallville] sat two rows ahead of me in King Kong.
2006 has gotten off to a busy start, as you might have been able to guess by the delayed delivery of the December Update. Thank you for your patience this month and thank you for staying in touch over the last year.
May 2006 be a bright, prosperous year for you.
James & Daryl
